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Jun 15, 2009

Iran

Posted by Aesa |

Ahmadinejad has won. By a landslide victory. The first sentence I can understand. The second I cannot.

Ahmadinejad is the common man's leader. He holds widespread support from the lower and rural classes, and thus had a high chance of winning. But with Mousavi winning the support of the educated middle classes and upper classes, and mobilizing thousands of women, children and men alike- all wearing green- hoping to beat a dictator with a man who will still operate in a system of dictators- but promises more freedom and liberty, how did Ahmadinejad win by such a massive margin?

Iran has one of those "democracies" that the Middle East is blessed with, in abundance. Namely, a pseudo democracy. There are so many checks and balances in the Iranian system with the supreme leader Khameini and the judiciary, that have the political power to erase the "will of the people" out of the democracy. But now, with protestors taking to the streets for a third day, after the results, Khameini is ordering an election inquiry.

The inquiry will not go anywhere, I am sure. And Ahmadinejad will retain power. And people such as my friend Afsoon from Tehran, will continue to write emails that include the following words-
"he didn't lose, they made him lose, they cheated. everybody is frustrated and upset in Iran right now we dont know what to do. we all participated in the ellection to make sure that he (ahmadinejad) wont get reelected but it seems like no matter what we do they will do what it takes to stay in charge and powerful.
right now they have filtered facebook and youtube, pleas keep in touch with me via email I'm gonna miss you."

Emails that will make me think and rethink the entire premise of democracy in the Middle East.

Apr 17, 2009

Nature, Man Included

Posted by Aesa |

Nature, Man Included

27 February – 10 May 2009 | NUS Museum



How do we contemplate Nature and Man’s place in it? What are the issues in the representations of Nature reflecting contemporary social and cultural values, the self and community and their relationships with the natural landscape? Does the environment and its conditions reflect the economic and political dynamics? Should we highlight spatial domination or explore the boundaries between the natural and cultural, the urban and the undeveloped? Or can we reflect on the philosophical ideas on Human Nature?



Solitary

This photograph I clicked on a very memorable and very hot day in Cairo, near the Pyramids, only a day before I left Egypt to come back to Singapore, is a part of the above-mentioned exhibition in NUS Museum. If you are in the vicinity please check out the exhibition, it has some very very good photo essays along side single shots like mine. The one clicked in Turkey by a very young photographer is exceptionally brilliant.

Apr 16, 2009

Visa Woes

Posted by Aesa |

Having traveled on an Indian passport, I have more than my fair share of visa stories. The other day, I went to the Swiss embassy and had the most pleasant visa-acquiring experience. Firstly the Swiss embassy had several 10 feet long Swatches hanging on the walls. Very colorful and very cheery. Then the Swiss Ambassador (who I recently met at school) walked by, recognizing me and making small talk, and then when I went to submit my documents, the lady at the visa counter couldn't have been more friendly. It did help that my name was on a list sent to her by St Gallen, but she was so pleasant, I am amazed she worked at a visa counter!

Possibly the worst visa experience of my life was the Israeli one. From rude people, to extensive searches of my bag, to very intrusive questions, there were points when I just wanted to give up. It was the most harrowing experience ever. Memories copied from my old blog-

I was asked to remove my watch, earrings, belt and shoes and asked to sit down on a chair. On either side of me stood two security guards with guns. By now I was rethinking the entire idea of going to Israel. Every single item from by bag was removed and placed on the table. The I pod, sunscreen, sunglasses, aspirin, lip gloss, comb, chewing gum, mascara, my Russian novels, small sketch book, pen were all opened and sniffed and X rayed individually. My wallet was opened and all the coins were removed. My cigarette packet was opened and each cigarette was removed and X rayed while I sat few meters away watching. An Israeli man meanwhile once again began to ask me about my visit to Egypt and why in god’s name was I applying for a visa from Cairo not India.

The usual questions about my nationality and purpose of visit were asked. Upon saying I was Indian; I was immediately asked if I had any connection with Pakistan or Afghanistan. I said no. I was asked again if I knew any Pakistani people.

I was then asked about my religion. I uttered a simple and barely audible ‘Hindu.’ I was immediately asked if I had any proof that I was Hindu.

Of course in retrospect, it was all worth visiting Palestine =)
Getting a visa to the US was also quite harrowing. Plenty of questions, a lot of rudeness, and a lot of waiting. But Israel beats the US any day! Behind Israel and the US, South Korea comes close. I visited the embassy four times before my application was approved.

On the other side of things, I remember when I applied for a multiple entry visa to Turkey, I received a call from the embassy. They said I needed to additionally submit my hotel bookings. But to help me, they said I could email it to their Gmail account and I did not have to come down to the embassy! Up until the Swiss embassy the Turks topped my visa greatness list.

But after the lady at the Swiss embassy chit chatted about visas, travel, education and marriage, and then approved everything without any semblance of a hassle, and reminded me about the lunch with the Swiss Ambassador this Wednesday, I think this Schengen Visa acquiring process has been the best ever! Next time I need a Schengen Visa I go straight to the Swiss!





A Christian girl lights a candle as others pray to a shrine of Mother Mary during a midnight prayer service at the Our Lady Of Charity Church on April 11, 2009 in the village of Raikia, India. (Daniel Berehulak/Getty Images)



Christian nuns pray during a midnight prayer service at the Our Lady Of Charity Church on April 11, 2009 in the village of Raikia, India. (Daniel Berehulak/Getty Images)


"Christians gathered to pray under threat of continued secular violence in the Kandhamal area. Violence by Hindu extremists towards Christian minorities in the state has seen hundreds killed, over a thousand homes and scores of churches destoyed over the last several months."


And while the Christian minorities in the region are too scared to even pray on Easter let alone vote in the upcoming polls, the prime accused in the Kandhamal Riots, Manoj Pradhan, who has multiple charges of murder and arson against him, stands free as he contests for elections with a ticket from the BJP.

Me: So are you following the election news?
A: A little bit, not so much.
Me: okay
A: But I recently heard that a leader of one of the main parties in UP wants to ban English and Computers in schools. It reminded me of why I don't follow Indian politics.

Read- Samajwadi Party vows action against English language, computers.

English langauage and Computers are the new Poverty and Unemployment, at least for Mulayam Singh Yadav.

By now we have all heard of Dainik Jagran journalist Jarnail Singh hurling a shoe at Home Minister P Chidambaram. As the video below shoes, Jarnail Singh hurled a shoe because he was not satisfied with Chidambaram's tactful and polite reply to questions about Congress Candidate Jagdish Tytler's involvement in the 1984 Sikh Riots.




Following this incident, Congress decided to withdraw the candidacy of Jagdish Tytler and Sajjan Kumar.

When I first read of this move by the Congress, I thought the Congress did a good if not commendable thing. While the BJP and Samajwadi Party are actively involving people accused of being part of riots, and terrorist attacks, the Congress decided to not go that way.

But pretty soon it struck me that the BJP and Samajwadi Party continue to allow their accused candidates and supporters to be a part of the election process, because they are standing their ground and sticking firmly to the fact that these people are innocent until proven guilty and hence should be allowed to be a part of the election process.

The Congress on the other hand, gives Tytler and Sajjan the clean chit about their involvement, but due to public and 'public image' pressure asks the two to step down from their candidacy. So while I surely do not agree with the BJP and SP's decisions, I also do not understand why the Congress is allowing Tytler and Sajjan to step down if they claim that they are not guilty. The move clearly shows that the Congress, at this point, is as bad as the BJP, and is doing everything it can to win and gain power, with no principles in sight.

So on one hand we have an inexperienced young man, educated outside the country, who is only where he is because of his last name, and a party that at this point seems to be willing to do anything to win the election. And on the other side we have old fanatics and a party with a vicious Hindu Right Wing agenda.

So India does not decide on who is more capable, but sadly and merely needs to pick the lesser of the two evils. And I agree with Amit Varma, when he says on India Uncut that of the two, the Congress is more preferable.
This is because the Congress stands for nothing, while the BJP stands for something pernicious.

The BJP has given a ticket to Manoj Pradhan. Manoj Pradhan is currently in jail, charged with inciting communal violence and rioting. He is the prime accused in the Kandhamal riots against Christians in Orissa. The BJP, of course, blames the Congress for 'arresting an innocent man on false charges.' So, yes, a man involved in more than a dozen cases of murder and arson, is contesting the elections for the Udayagiri Assembly seat in Orissa. And he is reasonably sure of winning the seat too.

In the last Assembly election, Pradhan fought as an Independent candidate and got over 15,000 votes. The winning candidate got over 34,000 votes. This time Pradhan hopes that with the Kandhamal issue in the background and the support of the BJP he would win the election comfortably even while remaining behind bars.


And meanwhile, cries of 'Sanjay Dutt Zindabad' and 'Long Live Munnabhai' can be heard in Uttar Pradesh. Sanjay Dutt was convicted and sentenced to six years in prison with charges connected to terrorism and the Mumbai Bomb Blasts of 1993. Because the Indian law bars anyone who has been sentenced for more than two years in prison, from contesting elections, Sanjay Dutt could not get a ticket. So he is in Lucknow, standing next to candidate Nafisa Ali and Samajwadi Party politician Amar Singh, campaigning for Nafisa Ali.

"It would have been our good fortune if Sanjay Dutt had been our candidate," Samajwadi Party activist Syed Mohammad Imran says. "It's a conspiracy that he has been barred from contesting elections. But now, Nafisa Ali is the candidate here, she is Sanjay Dutt's candidate. We have to put all our might behind her to ensure her victory," he says.



People of the state seem to have forgotten that Sanjay Dutt is a man who was convicted with charges related to bomb blasts and terror attacks against his own country. He was convicted with connections to Bomb Blasts and Riots that burned and killed the very city which created the fictional, film character of Munnabhai.

They say Dutt is the son of a Hindu father and and a Muslim mother, and this will push the cause of secularism. They leave out that he was involved with Muslim terrorists attacking the very city his parents loved. And that those bomb blasts did not push the cause of secularism, but led to severe, bloody riots killing thousands of people.

But he stands in front of a large crowd shouting slogans praising him and Munnabhai, transposing a man convicted on charges related to terrorism, and a fictional character from a Bollywood film, while saying:

"I entered politics to warn the people so that they didn't go through what I have had to go through in my life. My father was an MP for 18 years, but I was arrested and held under Tada [India's strict anti-terrorism law]. I was beaten up by the police. Now if that can happen to me, can it not happen to you?"

And the public cheers. While, somewhere, the ghost of his father, Sunil Dutt, weeps.


I came across this beautiful collection of photographs on The Big Picture on the The Boston Globe.

When I was in Jerusalem, on my very first day there, Sara and I decided to join a Franciscan procession along the Via Dolorosa (the Path of Sorrow or the Way of the Cross). The Via Dolorosa is the route tradition says prophet Jesus followed, from his condemnation by the Romans to the spot where he was buried after the crucifixion.

At 4 pm everyday, hundreds of people gather near the Lions Gate in the Muslim quarter of the Old city of Jerusalem. After saying a few prayers, led by the priests and nuns, the procession begins. The procession ends at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher at the point where Christ is said to have been crucified and buried. Along the way, the procession stops at 14 stations, each signifying a particular event in Christ's final journey. The first of these 14 stations is where Christ was condemned and a crown of thorns was put on his head. Then come station when Christ stumbled and fell, and where he and Mother Mary met for the last time. The last five stations are inside the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. At every station, everyone around me prayed and sang songs about Christ's greatness and his pain when we walked this path, towards his Crucifixion. It was an interesting experience, to say the least.

After looking at some of the photographs of the Holy Week in the Boston Globe collection, I really wish I could go back to Jerusalem and stay there for months. Though the few days I spent there were among the most brilliant of my life so far, but I can imagine how lovely and lively Jerusalem would be on days of great importance to either of the three Abrahamic Religions.


A few of my photographs from that day, almost 2 years ago.


A man looks on as the procession passes by in the Muslim Quarter



Near the beginning


A part of the path



A church marking the place where Jesus and Veronica met. The sixth station.



The Hindu Right in India, as scary as it is, can be quite amusing. The latest saga with Varun Gandhi is an example of how flaky BJP really is, with regards to its identity.

Varun Gandhi is the son of mysterious-place crash victim Sanjay Gandhi and the legendary bahu (Daughter in law) Maneka Gandhi who turned against her Prime Minister saans (Mother in law), with tales of sorrow and abuse. Educated at LSE and SOAS, Varun Gandhi has been involved in Indian Politics for a few years now. Coming from the legendary Congress family, Varun Gandhi and his animal-activist mother Maneka Gandhi took a much publicised decision to join the BJP. And in the upcoming elections, Varun Gandhi is contesting the Lok Sabha seat in Philbit (in Western Uttar Pradesh) for the BJP (a seat that has belonged to his mother previously).

In his campaign, Varun Gandhi has decided to adopt a very very Hindu right-wing agenda and is clearly not afraid to show it.

"If somebody lifts a hand against the Hindus, or thinks they are weak, there is nobody behind them, then I swear on the Bhagvad Gita I will cut off that hand."

"Apne jao, apne gaon mein jao aur halla karo ki saara Hindu ek tarfa ho jao, chhetra ko Pakistan hone se bachao, aur saara Hindu ek tarfa ho jao! (Go to your villages and give the call that all Hindus must unite to save this area from becoming Pakistan..)

"Yeh panja nahi hai, yeh kamal ka haath hai. Yeh kat** ke galey ko kaat dega chunaav ke baad. Jai Shri Ram! Ram ji ki jai! Varun Gandhi kaat daalega! Kaat denge us haath ko, kaat denge, kaat daalega! (This is not the (Congress symbol) ‘hand’, this is the hand of the ‘lotus’. It will cut the throat of the Muslims after the elections... Varun Gandhi will cut... Cut that hand, cut it, cut it.)

And my personal 'favourite':

"Kya yeh sach nahin hai… ki usko bola gaya ki mataji aapka naam kya hai... agar usne bola ki Bimla Devi, to usko kahaa ki dekhenge, sochenge... pehle paanch hazaar rupaye do... aur agar uska naam hai Saira Bano ya jo bhi Begum Hukum Begum... hum to jaante nahin hain... badey daraawne naam hotey hain inke... Karimullah... Mazharullah.... agar raat ko kabhi dikh jaayen... to darr rahen hain.. " [Is it not true... that if (a woman) is asked her name and she says Bimla Devi, she is told we’ll see, we’ll think (about giving Government aid), give us Rs 5,000 first... But if her name is Saira Bano or whatever begum Hukum Begum... I don’t even know... These people have such scary-sounding names... Karimullah, Mazharullah... If you ever encountered them at night, you’d be scared...]


Other than the quotes, of course are acts of clear communal mistreatment, like him asking a Sikh BJP leader to leave a rally, since he was not a Hindu.

Now coming to the BJP. When Varun Gandhi launched into his clearly ethno-nationalist, severely right wing rhetoric, the BJP leaders distanced themselves from his discourse. BJP has been trying to portray a secular image in the last few months. When Ram Sena decided to throw out women from a pub in Mangalore, the BJP condemned the attacks. The BJP has been trying quite hard in these months before the 2009 elections, to distance themselves from extremist Hindu propoganda and conduct their campaigns on the premise of secularism, and economic prosperity. So when Varun Gandhi launched into his pro-Hindu and viciously anti-Muslim discourse, BJP leaders voiced their concerns.

Naresh Verma, a popular BJP leader in Puranpur - within the constituency - said, "I am a BJP activist and a Hindu too. But I am not in favour of launching a communally charged campaign. If Varun Gandhi persists with such style of campaigning, I would be compelled to keep myself away from it."

Added another BJP veteran Gurdial Singh: "Varun is going out of hand. If he is not restrained, this election could end in a bloody communal clash."

On 22 March 2009, the Election Commission found Varun Gandhi guilty and has condemned him in the case related to his 'hate speech' during an election rally in Pilibhit, Uttar Pradesh. The Election Commission asked the BJP not to nominate him as a candidate for the 2009 General Elections. The Election Commission informed the BJP, since the party disowned the comments made, if party nominated him as a candidate then whatever he mentioned in the 'Hate Speech' would be treated as the party's policies.

And this is when the tables turned.

Now, Varun Gandhi became an innocent BJP politician, being jailed by the evil Congress. He was a martyr. A leader who did nothing wrong. Wrongly accused, badly treated, he was thrown into jail by the 'others.' In Varun Gandhi the BJP found their rhetoric against the Congress. And now Varun Gandhi is the wronged leader, who will combat all this hardship, and not give up. He will fight from Jail and win ! He is BJP's hero.

"He (Varun) had not done something for which he has to go to jail. It reminds people of how leaders like George Fernandes and Nanaji Deshmukh, behind bars during Emergency, fought elections from jail and won with handsome margins. This is all a Congress conspiracy," says Senior BJP leader LK Advani.

The BJP is finding it extremely hard to decide if it is to be a very Hindu-Right party or a secularist party. It often oscillates between the two, unable to find a stable middle ground. The formation of its principles and discourse, much like all else in the subcontinent, is a mere play on the circumstances, twisting into the shapes required, as and when they are required.

And the irony of it all is, that the man in the Orange turban, with the red tilak, shouting slogans of Jai-SriRam, asking for a ban on cow slaughter, and spewing hatred towards the Muslims, is only a quarter Hindu. Much like some of his Hindu Right predecessors (who are self-proclaimed atheists), he supports the cause of extremist Hindu Nationalism and a Hindu Nation, shouting the name of Lord Rama, playing on the Hindu identity, without even being Hindu.

(I would laugh. But instead I worry.)

They thought they were free

Posted by Aesa |


In Germany they first came for the Communists,

and I didn't speak up because I wasn't a Communist.

Then they came for the Jews,
and I didn't speak up because I wasn't a Jew.

Then they came for the trade unionists,
and I didn't speak up because I wasn't a trade unionist.

Then they came for the Catholics,
and I didn't speak up because I was a Protestant.

Then they came for me —
and by that time no one was left to speak up.

- Martin Niemoller

I am often asked why I am so bothered about events happening so far away from me. My anger towards the Israeli-Palestinian situation is well known to those around me. People at school and work give me knowing looks whenever Palestine is mentioned. The same people restrain me from lashing out at Israeli diplomats who say things that bring to me unimaginable grief and anger. I am known to cry over wars happening very far away from the physical me and worry about issues of countries I have left and even countries I have never been to. And I am going to devote my life studying, photographing and writing about a lot of things that if I want, can all be placed in another reality. Time and again I get into furious arguments with loved ones about these issues. Time and again I explain to them, that these issues are not just NEWS or readings to me, but are everything I believe in, everything I am working for and everything I want to keep working for. These are not hobbies or interests, these the reasons I wake up and study hard and work hard and indifference is not only not possible but is not even an option.

Niemoller's poem brought to me a strange comfort, assuring me that I had indeed made some right choices.

On March 31st 2009, during an election meeting in Garjaria village in Barmer, Rajasthan, you were found distributing packets of money to the villagers. Your son, Manvendra is fighting the upcoming elections from that constituency. While I am very pleased that you, being a Senior BJP leader, have found it in your heart to give the poverty stricken villagers not just spare change, but packets of money and food; like the election commission, I am a little disconcerted about the timing of your beautiful humanitarian efforts.

But today, after you told the Congress Leaders, that it is your duty to help the poor. And if the Congress thinks, helping the poor is a crime, you will ignore them and continue with your humane efforts, I have to say, my suspicions now lay at rest.

Why would the Election Commission even think that you are distributing money to buy votes? Why would they think that once your son wins, the people of Barmer will not only never see packets of money again, but also will never see the water pumps you are promising them? That these villagers will be let down and further lose faith in the governance of the country? It is so clear that your humble acts of kindness have no underlying selfish intentions, whatsoever.

Sincerely,
Aesa


Israel (and the US) are celebrating 30 years of Camp David Accords signed between Egypt and Israel. In Israeli news networks Camp David Accords are being called a long lasting sign of success in the Middle East Peacemaking process. The Israeli Ambassador to Singapore who was at school the other day to give a talk on Israel's foreign policy towards its neighbors, called Anwar Sadat a great man at least ten times in his one hour talk. He insisted that treaties between Egypt and Israel, and Jordan and Israel served as great illustrations of how Israel was capable of peace and cooperation, and of how there are Arab nations who accept Israel.

To begin with, Camp David Accords may have been successful in giving Egypt the Sinai region back and opening up a few doors of tourism and trade between Egypt and Israel, but they not only totally ignored the question of Jerusalem, but also left the framework of self governance in the West Bank and Gaza open to ambiguity and interpretation. And though while Israeli tourists were all over Sharm-el-Sheikh enjoying the Red Sea of Egypt, Israel and US could interpret 'self governance' in the context of the West Bank and Gaza, in anyway they wanted., not particularly helping the Israel-Palestine issue.

Camp David Accords left Egypt suspended from the Arab League for a decade, and changed the perception of Egypt as a country among the Arab Nations. When Anwar Sadat was assassinated, for the first time ever, three former Presidents of the US attended the funeral service, but not a single head of an Arab State was present. So apparently, peace in the Middle East was a step closer even though the rest of the Arab World was clearly not happy.

And within Egypt, till today, most of the population considers Israel an enemy, and Egypt-Israel treaties, remain a sore subject that raises much anger and disappointment in the Egyptians. An example of this is Egypt's blockade of Rafah Border during Israel's strikes on Gaza in December 2008-January 2009 which resulted in widespread dissidence and protest amongst Egyptians against the actions of Egypt's government.

So I ask, what I asked the Ambassador, after the talk, can a peace of paper signed between the heads of the States of Israel and Egypt, ever signify progress in peace making, if, at the end of the day, the citizens of Egypt and the rest of the Arab World view it not only as a failure, but also as a step towards giving into Israel's agression and not demanding greater concessions for the Palestinian State's right to self determination? How does it matter what Sadat thought of Israel, if the people he left behind still do not accept its means of existence?

Mar 23, 2009

tis the time to be jolly.

Posted by Aesa |


The last ten days have carried much awaited (and hopefully much deserved) good news. First off I was accepted into the St Gallen Symposium 2009 to be held this May in Switzerland. The theme for this year's symposium is the 'Revival of Political and Economical Boundaries.' And my paper was on the sub-theme of 'Inter-disciplinary Cooperation in the Current Geopolitical Era. ' My paper was a case study of Counter-terrorism as a success story of inter-disciplinary cooperation through political boundaries. So now I await a call from their travel agent, to book my tickets to Europe in May! I am super thrilled about the symposium and thrilled about the week I am going to spend traveling either before or after the symposium (Spain is the destination!).

After the St Gallen acceptance, I was told by my professor that I had an A on my 4,500 word Religion and Identity term paper (titled- Gender and Religious Identity and Symbol Manipulation: A study of women in Hindu Right Wing movements in India). This was followed by me finding out that I had an A in the course as well!

Then came the news that I was waiting for with much panic and anxiety. I want to do a Master's or Graduate dissertation (thesis). (It is very much needed if I want to get into a good school for a PhD.) But to do a dissertation, one requires a GPA of an A- average or a 4.5 at the end of the first two terms. My GPA from last term was good and made the cut but I needed to do excellently this term too, to make it. So somewhere during the week, I got the much awaited email saying though the Grades will only be officially out end of next week, I had made it to the dissertation track!!

The very next day, the last good news of the week took the form of my returned 5,000 word term paper for my course on South Asian International Relations. India's leading foreign policy analyst and a famous journalist, namely my professor, wrote on my term paper- 'A+ (A plus) , has potential to be transformed into a publication.' (My term paper was titled: South Asian Regionalism: Failures of SAARC and the Way Ahead.)

So by the end of the week, I was thrilled =)

Last year at this time, I was struggling with Design II and FYP and almost dying (and regularly breaking down) thanks to that b**** of a co-supervisor in the nano-bioanalytics lab. I thought I was so far away from all the things I wanted to study and all the things I wanted to achieve. And here I am now, studying things that are important to me and doing bloody well too =)

So for those of you wondering about my excessively happy status messages on FB and GTALK, no I haven't turned into some cheesy, optimist with rose tinted glasses. I am as rude and as allergic to cheery dispositions as I was, I am just enjoying some well-deserved good news after a lot of hard work. And now off I go, I am working on that term paper and getting it ready to send out to Journals and such.

I am amazed that Slumdog Millionaire won so many Oscars. Disappointing really.

I enjoyed the movie. I thought the camera work was brilliant, the music was good and it was entertaining. But that's all it was. Entertaining. I did not think it was remarkable or anything. After the movie, there are those Indians who are thrilled that an Indian movie won at the Oscars. I belong to the other kind- Slumdog was not an Indian Movie. It was about India and was a totally 'gora' movie. A very narrow perspective, a very let's capitalize on the Indian poverty, rags to riches, happy ending kind of perspective. A very 'gora' perspective.

I enjoyed the first half mainly because as someone who likes photography I liked the camera treatment, the colors and the kids- a lot. The second half was predictible and with the grown up characters speaking in what sounded like Brit accents, and Jamal's brother growing up to look very very different from him, was frankly quite weird. The one scene that really clicked was when Jamal is in the hotseat for the final question and people all over the country are watching. people everywhere are waiting with bated breaths and then when he wins everyone in India shouts out in joy, as if they had just won. I have lived through such moments back in India and I could so totally relate to the feel of India in that moment. But that was the only scene in which I could.

I am glad AR Rahman won though. Even if it is true that he has made lots of better music prior to Slumdog and the sad truth of him getting international acclaim only in the hands of a not-so-extraordinary soundtrack but for an international movie, holds true. But I hope, with this more of him will get noticed and real talent will be appreciated and awarded for what it is and not for being part of an exaggerated hoopla.


Feb 22, 2009

Exams, Term Papers and all that stuff.

Posted by Aesa |

For the first time in History, I have finished a term paper, with everything in place and with referencing, more than a day in advance. Yes, my South Asian Politics paper on Regionalism in South Asia and India's role as a hegemon to lead this regionalism, is done. Word Count: 4862. Done Done Done. I am just putting it into "turnitin" to submit and hopefully it will give me a very low plagiarism count and I won't have redo anything!

My exam for the course on South Asian International Relations is also over. I carefully avoided the questions that asked for a Solution for Kashmir, A Solution for Afghanistan and anything to do with nuclear politics and alliances. The two questions I answered were-

1) Is "regionalism" a viable option instead of India's traditional "Monroe Doctrine" in South Asia?
2) The current conflict over the Durand line between Pakistan and Afghanistan is rooted in the British three-fold frontier system of administering India. Discuss.

The hardest thing about this exam was that it was handwritten. Imagine, 15-20 pages handwritten in two hours! Every few minutes cracking of knuckles, stretching, sighing could be very well heard in our 12 member class. Handwriting things is something we have all started to forget. For me, though I like handwriting short notes and letters, when it comes to academia I really enjoy the privilege of spell check and of erasing and rewriting sentences. Not to mention my handwriting is quite bad. My e, v, r all look the same.

But anyway, its done! Although days of intellectual crushes on India's leading foreign policy analyst who wooed us all with his knowledge and his excellent teaching every Monday afternoon, are also over :( Unless of course I take a course on India's defense and foreign policy next year. Don't know about that as yet.

Now, I am still working on my other term paper for my Religion and Identity course. Through the paper I argue that identities are instrumentalist rather than primordial, and to substantiate my claim I evaluate the case study of women in Hindu Right Wing militancy. This is the most interesting paper I have written and I have spent weeks just reading journals and books on the Hindu Right Wing in India and the shocking large number of women who join it. My weekend take home exam for Religion and Identity is next week and is one that I am looking forward to.

And then on next Monday one more trimester will finish.

p.s. Everyone at work is gearing up for the conference on 'terrorist rehabilitation' that our centre is organising for clerics and academics from all over the world. Di and I have exam leave and are exempted from the work! Yay! Although I will soon talk about my two days of work in a shady part of SIngapore, on a book that we wrote for the conference. :S I guess I have done my part!

Right-Wing Hindu freaks and their tragic, sometimes hilarious propaganda has been a common occurrence while growing up in India, especially in the city of the Mumbai.

Most recently, the Ram Sena in Mangalore decided that women should be not be visiting pubs and went into a pub on a Saturday afternoon, and did the following:



Then came the announcement that brought back the hilarity in this horrible act.

As Amit Varma writes on India Uncut:

Until recently, I thought that Pramod Muthalik was a right-wing bigot, much like the Thackerays and Togadias of the world. But I have changed my mind. It is now obvious to me that he is really an artist of the highest calibre, exposing the silliness of the right-wing bigotry around him with satire that would do Jaspal Bhatti proud. Consider his recent announcement that his men will “forcibly marry off couples found dating in public” on Valentine’s day.

"Our activists will go around with a priest, a turmeric stub and a mangalsutra on February 14. If we come across couples being together in public and expressing their love, we will take them to the nearest temple and conduct their marriage."

What outstanding satire! We are lucky to have such a powerful artist in our midst, commenting on the world around him not in an artistic space, but in a political one. What an idea!


Incidentally, my Religion and Identity class on the Monday following all this happened to be on 'Hindu Right Wing' in India. And of course all this was brought up in class. And not one person did not find this whole 'marriage' thing hilarious!

Soon after the attack on the Pub-Goers, came the retaliation- The Consortium of Pub-Going, Loose Forward Women and the Pink Chaddi Campaign. Women (and Men) adopted a different kind of Gandhigiri where through sarcasm and Pink Chaddis they oppose the Ram Sena's propaganda. Some say that the whole idea is kind of stupid, as women by the use of 'lingerie' as a symbol (pink lingerie, moreover) are going back to very stereotypes that feminism is fighting against. But I feel, that whatever the symbol maybe the getting together of like-minded individuals to actually do something or at least raise their voices against all this bullying is better than doing the usual- treating it as a part and parcel of life in India.

Of course though all the people I know condemn this 'hooliganism,' there are many in India who believe that the girls deserved it and that Indian women should not go to pubs, but should sit at home, be wives, mothers, daughters and daughters-in-law and hold on to the 'izzat' and 'reputation' of the family.

Today I came across this video (and the many that follow it):



So for some reason, the person representing YOUTH in this debate, is the producer of MTV Roadies and I think his shouting makes the whole debate hilarious. Though he makes some good points, the entire debate just brings out how ridiculous our country has become. No one seems to make any sense.


Pub-Culture or the ban on it, simply has nothing to do with morals, Indian Culture, our Sanskriti, how women should behave or feminist liberation. It is a matter of simple civil liberties. I, as an individual, should be able to go to a bar, and buy myself a drink. Why should anyone tell me what my morals and ideals should be?

And if people from the Ram Sena or the Shiv Sena or these two in the debate, feel that alcohol is not good and pubs are not good, then they are, by all means, welcome not to frequent pubs.


Feb 10, 2009

Thailand- Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is a small town, tucked away, near the forests and mountains of Northern Thailand, only a couple of hours away from Thailand's border with Myanmar and Laos. Our few days in Chiang Mai were to include a trip to Chiang Rai and the Golden Triangle (where River Mekong separates Thailand, Myanmar and Laos) but after discovering what Chiang Mai had to offer, we decided to stay in Chiang Mai for all of the six days.

Chiang Mai, has, off late become quite touristy, but there are ways to take advantage of the touristy nature and its convenience whilst at the same time wander into the Thai Chiang Mai. On our very first day in Chiang Mai, our hostel fellow, Noom, took us and a few others (all Goras, on Asian Backpacking trips) to the remains of the walls around the Old City of Chiang Mai. As we climbed on those walls and sat above the busy road, he gave us a lesson on ChiangMai's history. I caught only tidbits of his lecture, as I was busy looking at passersby on the road, each one more amused than the other, at the sight of 20 White people sitting on the walls on the Old City. Following this lecture, we made our way to the famous Sunday walking Street where I shopped and shopped, and Roy entertained himself with all the street food.

Early next morning, we signed up for day of trekking and white water rafting in the nearby forest/mountain area. A truck picked up 5 of us and took us 3 hours away to foresty mountains. We trekked for a few hours, stumbling into Hill Tribes of Northern Thailand, including the Paduang Tribe, whose women have seemingly long necks because of the rings they wear around them.



Later, we were met by three elephants and their mahouts in the middle of pretty dense jungle and we hopped onto the backs of these elephants. The elephant trek that followed, lasted about two hours and was extremely scary. The jungle was very rocky and mountainous and there were times when the elephant went down paths and rocks, so steep that it felt like we were suspended in mid-air, in a slow moving rollercoaster.

In the middle of the jungle, it was decided that we were to get off these elephants. There was no high-stand/platform in sight. The first elephant was asked to sit and tilt and our friend Elias literally slipped down. When it was our turn, the elephant was asked to snuggle into a rock. The rod in front of me was removed and I was asked to step on the elephant's head and jump onto the rock. After a little bit of coaxing I managed to do as I was asked and I found myself on a rock the height of the elephant. I was then asked to jump. To this, I cursed in reply and finally found a way to slid down the damn rock.

As if all this wasn't insane enough, we then went for white-water rafting for a couple of hours. Now this was the high point of my day. I love the water and though there were few really scary rapids, with huge rocks, and though there were alligators in the river, I absolutely loved the thrill of it. At one point, Roy who was sitting in front of me, fell backwards into the raft. As we were near a few rocks, I panicked, but we managed to lift him back without disturbing the balance of the raft, and the thrill went on. After the rapid-parts of the river were done, we shifted onto long and thin bamboo rafts which weren't scary except I was a little worried about alligators.

All in all, when I hit the bed that night, I was one happy person. Inspite of the fact that every single part of me was aching.

The next day, Roy decided to go for another adventure trip called the Zip Line Tour or the Flight of the Gibbons. They put you on a platform 50 m high, on a tree. And with ropes, pulleys, harnesses you make your way through the jungle, from tree to tree, platform to platform with plenty of free-falls and such. Now I am sure it was all very exciting, but somehow being suspended 50 m over land, in a dense jungle and being asked to behave like a gibbon, is just not my kind of a Holiday, so the very same day I signed up for an eight hour long Thai cooking class at a local Thai school. We both came back to the Hostel, very very thrilled. Of course I brought along Green Curry Chicken and other brilliant Thai dishes that I had cooked through the day :D

The last couple of days in Chiang Mai were spent exploring the town, its temples and markets and relaxing in the hot afternoons at the Hostel, watching DVDs. Highlights of this exploring included stumbing onto a massive Thai BBQ buffet dinner, held every night and attended by thousands. Quite cheap and brilliant food in the midst of about a thousand Thai people, with garish Thai music blaring in the background and cheap donuts for dessert was just so brilliant! The place was untouched by tourists! Another highlight was a visit to Wat Mun, a forest temple with a system of tunnels. On our way back, we walked for almost two hours to find a tuk-tuk to take us back.


Wat Mun


This post would be incomplete if I did not mention Spicy Thai backpackers, one of the most wonderful hostels I have stayed in, in terms of hospitality and goodtimes. The crowd was a good mix and was wonderfully friendly. The dorms were clean and nice, the lounge downstairs was fabulous, the location was off-beat and not noisy and we spent many nights and afternoons talking to backpackers from all over the world. We even met a guy who played an extra in the Lord of the Rings :D and a Southerner from Texas who got a fourteen year old pregnant when he was seventeen and got drunk on our alcohol to tell us how brave of her it was to have that baby!
Four of the travellers we met from the North of England are staying with me next weekend as after 6 months of travelling, they make their way to their final destination, Australia, via Singapore.

And then, we left Chiang Mai and headed to BKK and back to grind pretty soon after that. Remarkably, with all this stuff to do, I managed to finish two books- Atonement, and City of Joy. The long train journeys :)

Meeting all these people and this trip, has only made me want more and more, what I have been wanting forever, namely, long backpacking adventures, lasting through months and perhaps even a year. We are now planning a long Trans-Siberian, Mongolian, Manchurian adventure and many many smaller ones. All of which, I can't stop thinking about, as I barely finish writing about this one!

Feb 9, 2009

Thailand- Ayuthaya

Posted by Aesa |

Ayuthaya, a city founded in 1350, was the capital of the Ayuthaya Kingdom or Siam Kingdom. Named after Ayodhya (Lord Ram's 'apparent' birthplace in India), it was destroyed by Burmese invaders in the eighteenth century. The city, today, is a UNESCO World Heritage site, with ruins of temples everywhere.

On our second day in Thailand, we took a train from Bangkok to Ayuthaya at about noon, getting there right in the middle of a hot afternoon. After putting away our bags in the Train Station Luggage deposit, we decided to explore the ruins of the city. We went temple-hopping and were amazed to imagine what this city might have looked like at its prime.



I love old buildings, fallen-apart walls and ruins of ancient kingdoms and civilizations. Having loved History all my life and still harboring ambitions of someday being a Historian, a place like Ayuthaya was magical to me.

Yes it was sad to see thousands of images of Buddha, desercated, left behind after the heads of all these images were chopped off by invaders. It was sad to imagine the glory of this kingdom, whose name meant 'undefeated,' and the defeated fall it took. But it was incredibly exciting for me to examine these walls that reeked of History. I could close my eyes and imagine all the temples with their statues intact, adorned with Gold and Gemstones, full of wealth and life. And I could also, imagine, with a straight-face, the invasion by the Burmese, who to establish their supremacy, damaged every single symbol of the previous Ayuthaya Kingdom.


After spending an entire afternoon and evening in these ruins and in my imagination, we headed back to the train station to board our over-night train to Chiang Mai.

(Photographs of Ayuthaya at Flickr)

Feb 8, 2009

Thailand- Bangkok

Posted by Aesa |

Bangkok was alright. It certainly did not stir in me, what Cairo, Istanbul and Jerusalem did. And neither did it feel comfortable, as Hong Kong did. It was just alright.

We landed in Bangkok on Friday (23rd Jan) night and by the time we made it to our Hostel it was almost 11 PM. The hostel was great though. As usual, we had booked through Hostel World and design-wise it was the most polished, convenient and fantastic hostel I have stayed in. (It was called Lub D, and I strongly recommend it, even though its a bit pricey.)

The very same night, my colleague Nona was also in Bangkok, and having fought with her travel companions, she was very bored, sitting in a random club in the notorious Pat Pong district. Since I definitely wanted to go the area and see what the fuss was all about, we joined her. The three of us ended up in one of those shady bars, where women seemed to be using their vaginas to do all kinds of things they were not designed to do (like write on a chart paper with a marker, blow a trumpet, smoke a cigar, open Coke Bottles, throw Darts to burst balloons and play pingpong).

Now Nona and I, after watching one round of these tricks and having taken a walk in the Red-light district, which involved a creepy run-in with some Nigerians, decided that we had seen enough. Though in the beginning it was a little amusing, it very soon was just pathetic and disturbing. The way these women fought for customers, and how easily they resorted to not only sex, but humiliating tricks, ceased being amusing when we saw a woman, at least 5 months pregnant, standing on the bar top and doing a trick with her vagina. I can quite easily dismiss all that they do as disgusting and disturbing, and never go back there again, but then again, what choice do most of these women have?

The next day we left Bangkok to head North to ChiangMai. After 7 exhausting and splendid days in Chiang Mai we were back in Bangkok (and Lub D) for two more days. Other than a little bit of shopping, and a couple of sherries at the gorgeous 64th floor open-air-bar: Sirocco (which employs 20 people just to welcome you and to stand at each step reminding you to mind the step), a visit to the weekend Chattuchak Market, we managed to wander around certain non-touristy parts of Bangkok. We wandered into several Monk-neighborhoods, prayer centers and random street markets, which were all very crowded and exhausting. At a point, we found ourselves in a prayer hall, surrounded by hundreds of monks, who barely noticed our existence.

And then we found ourselves in front of e entrance to this temple, hidden somewhere in Bangkok.



And finally after a day of wandering, 2 thoroughly amusing, insanely crowded and insanely unsafe boat rides and a long MRT ride, we made our way back to the hostel.

I did not give Bangkok a fair chance, I guess. Through that last day of wandering I only caught a glimpse of the real, non-tourist infested, chaotic Bangkok. But am not sure if I really will ever be interested in going back to see more.

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